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| 2004 Safari Journal | |||||||||||||||||
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Cruise West Africa Journal Overview WOW! What an amazing adventure this has been. I feel like I have just been on the show the amazing race but with people from foreign countries who communicate in Finnish. All of you know that I am fluent in Finnish, NOT! I have not really had time to digest most of the experiences I've encountered on this trip. I have been so blessed with this opportunity and my life has been enriched by all of the new people that I have met and spent time with. I am so full of joy and happiness it's overflowing. First I did a cruise with Folke West from Finland on the Kristina Regina from Senegal, The Gambia and then four Cape Verde Islands. The first group from Finland left and a second group came and did a similar cruise in reverse. We then flew from Senegal to the Canary Islands to Helsinki Finland, picked up the third group from Finland for a safari in East Africa, had a two-hour layover and then flew Helsinki, Amsterdam, and Arusha all in the same day?! This past five weeks I have been photographing food markets, fishing boats with their catch, native dancers, buildings, people, landscapes, coffee plantations, slave centers, historical landmarks, secluded gorgeous beaches, cruise ships, hotels, handicrafts, street vendors, monuments, concentration camps, remote villages, churches, Mosques, forts, monasteries, forests, publicity shots, sunrises and sunsets. I have also been fortunate to add to my wild animal list three black rhinos, 2 leopards, several lions, and a few cheetahs including one small baby cheetah, the red colobus monkey and 114 birds. Yes, I said birds. We saw a total of 35 different mammals and 114 different birds in only FOUR days of game drives. I am laughing as I now recall drinking local grog, brandy, smoking Cuban cigars, listening to Portuguese, Spanish and Creole music, none of which I understand, dancing around the beach bon fire overlooking the Indian Ocean and people from around the world. What a life. Pinch me I think that I am dreaming. On the plane trip from Zanzibar to Helsinki, the white wine that they served was Bellingham from South Africa. I laughed knowing nothing is a coincidence. My home Bellingham Washington has been with me through out this trip and no matter where I am, I am home. Now, the world has become my home. As I look at the results of my work, I again feel the emotions and remember each moment. I have captured what I was sent to do. So I can smile and know that my mission has just been enlarged in some way and I can only wait with great anticipation to find out where I will be sent next. As always this has already been a new adventure. Friday January 23, 2004 Our flight was delayed from San Diego to Chicago for 1.5 hours due to snow. The guy, Bill that I sat next to on my flight from San Diego to Chicago worked at circus circus in Reno as manager in charge of bellman. This was great as he helped me with my carry on "as carrying bags is his expertise". When he had to leave to go to the international flights on American, an employee who had helped us with directions picked up my bag and escorted me to the gate. He did not want to accept a tip because I was going to Africa but I insisted so I could help him. It was a godsend for me and maybe for him too every $5.00 adds up. As I arrived at my connecting gate, I pulled out my boarding pass and immediately boarded the plane. Saturday January 24, 2004 The flight to Paris was virtually empty so I sat in the area that had three seats open to and had a great flight. I slept a good portion of the way to Paris. Upon landing I finally found the flight to Helsinki and we boarded about an hour later. The flight was virtually event less until we landed. We landed January 24, 2004 at 3:27 PM. This is significant as that is mom’s birthday and mine also. The guy across the aisle asked me if I was American and I said yes. He said he was going to work indefinitely in America next week in New Orleans. His name was Iival and works for Nokia in the network division. He then offered to carry my camera bag, which was extremely heavy. Again this was a godsend. At the baggage claim area he suggested that I go to the world famous Molly Malone's in Helsinki. My luggage did not arrive. There were several others's whose bags were missing and while waiting in line to file the report I started talking with one lady. By the end of our conversation she said that she wanted to do an article on me. As it turns out, she is the chief editor for a Spanish travel magazine. We exchanged cards and I left with a big smile on my face. If my luggage had arrived then the conversation would never have taken place. I only hoped that Folke would not jump to the conclusion that I was not on the flight since so much time had passed since we had landed. Through the doors I went and there was Folke all alone waiting for me. We hugged and polite cheek kiss and I explained no luggage and he said he had figured that out. We hopped in a cab and went a short drive to his apt in down town Helsinki. It was like old times. The five years that had passed since we had seen each other disappeared in minutes. I asked about to the world famous Molly Malone's in Helsinki and he laughed. He had already planned to take me there. What I did not realize but was about to find out is just who Folke was/is. We sat in his apt and toasted with special Rum that was a gift from the Cuban ambassador called Havana Club Anejo 7. Then a bottle of Gato Negro Cabernet, dinner, and a call that the luggage had arrived. Many phone calls from friends arranging to meet us/me later at a couple of places in Helsinki. Mika came by the house and toasted with us as we waited for another friend to bring the infamous Serengeti tape by the apt. At 10:30 we left for the famous Molly Malone's but had to pick up friends at Bellga on the way. Petri, his girlfriend and her girlfriend were waiting; we had a drink and then departed for Molly Malones. Petri owns Molly Malones, so when we arrived we walked past the huge line of people who were standing outside waiting to get in. People said Folke, Folke recognizing him as a celebrity. These actually happened several times, as people would recognize Folke and stop him on the street to say hello. Initially we sat down stairs when we arrived at Molly Malone's and the guys lit up Cuban cigars, more drinks, and lots of laughs and great conversation. I am so thankful that allot of foreign countries mandate that everyone learn English, as I certainly do not know any Finnish except habblabblahblah. It is amazing to me how people automatically welcome Americans as if we are special or revered. We went upstairs and the place was PACKED! The band was Eric & the Hightones. They were absolutely fantastic. They were from Ontario Canada and the band changes each week and only plays one week out of the year. More drinks, more cigars, more friends, Sakke, and we left at 3:30 am for a brisk walk home to the apt. Bed, after being up since 5:30 am two days prior and I slept like a baby for five hours. Sunday January 25, 2004 This morning Folke made me breakfast and then the secretaries arrived for work. We both went to work. Folke shows everyone my photos and treats me with respect. He is extremely intelligent, funny, creative and very dedicated to his art and mission. He talked about me shooting do Botswana, Panama, Costa Rica and Namibia with him. After 12 years of doing 178 TV documentaries yearly, he is concentrating on wrapping up two big projects he has been working on in his spare time. One is on The Life of Hemmingway and the other is on Fidel Castro - from youth to his early years. He also has Folke West Travel Club, which schedules trips for people who want to travel with Folke as the host. As I watched his travel documentaries today I was truly impressed. I suggested that they be made in English, as I believe that there is a market for them in America. He then hired me as his North American Marketing Director, which could be mutually beneficial. Well well well. In the morning we leave for our two-week cruise on the Kristina Cruises. We depart from Helsinki at 10:00 am and fly to Dakar Gambia to board the boat and cruise the Cape Verde Islands. The first group will be 144 people and it should be a blast and a great new experience. It has been yet another adventure in the life of Sharon Lyon. Last night we worked until about 11:00 PM and then Folke said let's go out to the long & the short, otherwise known as "The Lost and The Found." We did and it was great. Lots of boarder line strange people trying to find a niche and be somewhat normal for whatever that means, different. Again, great music. Then we went to the karaoke place and had a couple of drinks, we finally went to bed about 4:00 am and then got up at 6:30 am. Not allot of sleep. Oh well but allot of fun. Plenty of time to sleep!? Monday January 26, 2004 Up bright and early so we can go to the airport. When we arrived at the airport there were many people checking us out. I only started to realize that the investigation, into who I was, was to begin. Folke joked that it would be in the papers about the strange blonde American traveling with him. People continued to meet and greet Folke at the airport. Of course I had no idea what was being said but I can only imagine. The flight was of no consequence, fairly smooth and we arrived in Dakar right on schedule. The luggage was taken to the boat for us and we boarded buses that took us to the boat. It was all very well coordinated and ran smoothly. Let the fun begin. We were handed our identification card and the information regarding our rooms. After locating our rooms, we unpacked and met at the bar before having dinner in the restaurant. The food was great. A wide selection of buffet items and we also had a great bottle of wine. The boat stayed in port for the evening and tomorrow we will begin our land tour starting with Dakar Senegal. Tuesday January 27, 2004 Today was amazing in many ways. It will be really hard to explain the feelings that I have but I will try. I went to Goree today. That is the island where they held the slaves during a very dark period in time. As we were approaching the island via ferry I got goose bumps. I was shooting Photographs and I realized that I was in the shoes of the slaves as they were brought here. As we approached the island it was a bit over whelming. I never had a connection before now or a desire but my understanding and feelings have been elevated to a new height. We toured the island, the museum and a house where a trader lived and kept his "goods". I cannot imagine how those people felt while they were here. All I could do was try to capture some of that feeling through the photographs that I took. As we left the island I felt ashamed that I'd be returning to a cruise ship. The dichotomy of the slaves leaving and me leaving again gave me goose bumps. Cherif met with Folke and I to discuss up coming trips. I had an opportunity to talk with him in some detail about the slave trade. He shed a whole new perspective on things. I told him how I had felt while shooting and my previous experiences in East Africa. As a white person coming here and already having a personal connection with my Tanzanian family I now know that the sins of my forefathers are not my burden. That we are in another time and it is still my responsibility to live, as I should and pass that forward. We discussed the local black participation in the slave trade as sellers of people to the whites. We agreed that sometimes is overlooked and only focus on the white that were involved. He said that his culture is behind in experience and somewhat primitive so from the natives perspective, seeing a white person for the first time is frightening or awesome. Then to have them come with guns (as opposed to a spear) and shoot elephants (the white big game hunter) they were perceived as a God or at least someone who had an amazing amount of power. There was also some discussion on the threats to the chiefs of taking them as slaves unless they provided the white slave traders with a commodity. So they were in a sense, cohersed into providing slaves or become one. Cherif also mentioned that when the white man first came for slaves they initially would capture them down by the water and shackle them and take them away. After a while this was ineffective as when the white man approached the blacks would run and hide. It was at this point that the whites then decided to meet with the chiefs of the tribes where they threatened and bartered for the captives of the rival factions and for outcasts, troublemakers' etc. What I have felt going to Senegal, is what many black Americans do as their pilgrimage back to their roots. As I was riding the boat to the island of Goree, I could not help but feel a part of what the slaves might have felt as they too took THE RIDE TO THE ISLAND. Although under different circumstances. I am free to leave when ever. As I shot photographs looking through the windows from inside out I could feel what they must have felt from inside looking out. The doorway to the ocean, to a new place, they had no idea of where and what. A transition in life, towards something new, a life changing experience. One of the unknown, uncharted waters, a similarity of life's times, but not of life's experiences. I am still tingling from the experience. Being half-Dutch I feel that my ancestors were here and left their mark in history and I can leave a mark too. I can only hope and pray that mine will be of a different nature. I can be thankful for that insight and know that I have once again changed and have a totally new perspective on another part of history and life in general. I am blessed. What a great opportunity I have been given. I hope that my Photographs capture what I felt today. Wednesday January 28, 2004 Arrive The Gambia, our second port. We arrived at approximately 9:00 am and boarded these open buses. They were sort of a safari type bus, a very nice change from your standard city bus. We headed to The Big Forest. The ride through the countryside was very pleasant and interesting in many respects. I can only compare it to other parts of Africa that I have seen. It seemed pretty clean and rather developed. Returning from the Big Forest" Makasutu Cultural Forest reminded me of a parade. I had forgotten this aspect from my previous trips. Children so excited to see tourists that they come running to the side of the road yelling and screaming waving and smiling. It makes for a perpetual parade for the 1.5 hours coming and going. It is a good thing that I have practiced my "wave". I became extremely grateful for all of my blessings and recognized yet again how important it is for a smile or wave for those who are never acknowledged in any way. I wanted to stop waving but I could not. Another magical part for me was when I started to shoot photographs of the street/market vendors who were shipside. Shoes and purses, fabrics, carvings all beautiful art. All of these were an expression of the artist and their specific talent and abilities. I had a great time capturing these images, which brought me into a new awareness. I also had a great time photographing the dancers as they performed their art. They danced for at least and hour shipside. I used virtually every piece of equipment and tape recorder. Another special time for me was when two merchants gave me a gift for purchasing something from them. I must capture their talent in order to share it with the world. I became aware that I needed to leave each place a better place than when I first arrived. If I can do that by a smile or a friendly wave or touch then I too have been changed in a positive way. Now my only concern is that I may run out of film before the safari. I can always pick more up in Amsterdam on the way to Arusha if that it's the case. Thursday January 29, 2004 We are on our first full day of cruising the ocean. We are headed to the Cape Verde islands from The Gambia. I am the only American out of 145 people on this cruise. I really had no idea what to expect or what this would be like. It has definitely been another amazing adventure. I slept in, had a bite to eat read my devotions and the to the exercise room for a great work out- Stairmaster- rowing machine- weights I feel great. I then went to the upper sun deck for sunbathing for the first time here. When I look out over the ocean in all directions all I can see is water everywhere. All I can hear is the sound of the engine rumbling, the ocean waves lapping at the side of the ship and Finnish Finnish everywhere. I cannot understand a word except an occasional Folke and American. Ha I wonder what they are saying. I can only imagine. I am definitely in a unique situation. Folke is the main reason that the majority of the Finns booked this cruise. He is a huge success in Finland and a star. He is a big TV personality and expert on adventure travel for the Scandinavian market. He has had a weekly show on TV therefore they are all interested in everything associated with Folke. Who I am, what I am, what I am doing, what we are, dissecting everything I/ we say, or do is being analyzed and scrutinized from my French pedicure, (love it) to my wardrobe, (I knew I had bought all of those new clothes for some good reason). This was really a beautiful day. It was probably 85 degrees out. I sat on the deck for about two hours. I wrote in my journal, relaxed and enjoyed this wonderful time and adventure. Then lunch and to the bar for a drink where some game was going on so I became part of a team. Trivia. I have no idea what the questions are or the answers, and then a special presentation on Finnish music. I can only wait and see what else is in store for me. I am so blessed and so excited. This experience has really expanded my horizons. The Finnish people are very nice but apologize for their English. I remind them that I do not speak Finnish at all therefore their English is much better than my Finnish and no apology is necessary. Friday January 30, 2004 Today we went to the old fort and an old monastery that made wine. Kids followed us around the village constantly asking for pens and money. When I return I may give out wwj bracelets. This is primarily a Moslem country and not many speak English but it just might be the seed that is needed to be planted. I need to read about this place before I return. I know that sir Francis drake was here and the fort was built for him. It is beautiful. It is really different not knowing anything about where I am. Knowing the history and the story behind all of this can only enhance it. When we return I will have that knowledge. Saturday January 31, 2004 We are cruising in the Cape Verde islands. Who knows where they are but check it out on a map, as they are beautiful. We were to stop on a deserted island of Maio today but the tide and surge were to great so the captain said that it would be too dangerous. We are now headed to Mindelo the capital of Sao Vicente. So we are cruising cruising cruising. Lying in the sun. I took photographs of aerobics and other ship activities today. This is a great small cruise ship; "Agatha Christy" type. A bit of the old fashioned, small intimate cruise. Not your typical big huge impersonal cruise ship where there would be several dinner and meal seatings. The local music is a real treat. A mix of French Creole, Portuguese and Spanish. I feel a new rhythm and beat and an appreciation for a language that I do not understand but can feel the rhythm. Appreciate the art, the being, and the heartbeat of the artist, the musicians and the music, the culture and everything that has been a part of the making. The language of music is universal. My photographs are universal. We all speak the same language of art and appreciation. Today it is nice to not be at sea. I already feel the motion of the ocean when we are on land. Some of the others feel it to. I can tell by their comments and actions. Nothing really, but all things considered, you can feel a bit off or a little like you have had a bit too much. Which is definitely not the case here. I have been told several times and have had many comments regarding my style, my technique. A new appreciation from those that have been observing my actions. They say that they can tell that I have a special connection with the Africans. They can tell by how I talk to them, touch them, sit with them and in the end have established a relationship with them. They say, that I have changed they way they think and feel and interact with people, in a positive way. If this was the mission, then it is finished. Sunday February 1, 2004 WOW I have just spent the last week on an amazing adventure. Being the
only American on this tour of West Africa with 144 Finnish. I thought
that I would meet new people and talk but so many have just now started
to carry on a conversation. And basically the Finnish are not confident
with their English and therefore they have held back but again I do not
speak or understand Finnish so everything is in perspective. Tomorrow
they all leave and the next tour of 144 more Finnish arrive for the same
cruise but in reverse. The good news is that I have already been here.
So I know the places or at least have been here. I also get another opportunity
to recapture the photographs of places that I might have missed. I do
need to read. It has been an awakening of sorts about how ignorant I am
regarding so many things. The week of tours, all of the announcements
and everything, I mean everything, is in Finnish and I do not understand
a thing. I have been photographing some amazing places in the Cape Verde
Islands. I know nothing of where I am but have been afforded the opportunity
to photograph and capture some beautiful places. It is now my responsibility
to find out as much as possible about the places that I have been. Last
night a small group of us got off the boat in port. We went to town at
about 12:00 midnight. We went to listen to music at hotel Mirange and
got back to the boat around 2:30 am. Today on tour we went to the same
square. I know that this is a big slavery place as the documentation is
everywhere in the square. We also went to some place very high up on the
island. It was most definitely the highest point on the island. I will
have to see what the monument was in the guidebook as everyone seemed
impressed and had his or her photos taken. We then went to the beach.
It was so beautiful, full of peace. We stopped for a drink and toilet
break at "the take away". We had the local grog and then chased
it with a local beer. A walk to the beach and after that we were back
on the road again. I know that I have made a lasting, hopefully good,
impression on these people who have spent a week of our lives together.
I have felt the obligation of being a good American ambassador representing
the American people. I have been involved in some political discussions
and it is truly amazing how the rest of the world views the American.
I hope that I have expanded their perception in a positive way. It is
amazing what a smile and a friendly hello or wave can do for those who
have nothing. Everyone is wondering where the photographs will be published
and/or for them to see. It might be something to consider, and mutually
beneficial, to link to Kristina Cruises and/or Folke West. That would
allow the people on the cruise to have special access to the photographs
in a special site. New horizons and expanding of what I am to do in life.
It is so interesting to me that I have been given this opportunity. Who
knows where it will lead? New doorways and new possibilities. I am so
excited to discover and find out what is in store for my future and me.
It is no coincidence that at this present time I am reading my purpose
driven life! Monday February 2, 2004 Today the first group of Finns left to go back to Finland. So it is a quiet day. After breakfast I watched everyone leave the boat and board the bus for the airport. They have a long flight back to Finland and a ton of snow. The next group arrives today this afternoon about 4:00pm. Right now I am missing my friends. It has been somewhat difficult being out of touch with my closest friends, which is the good thing about new adventures. It helps us appreciate what we have. I have been sunbathing and now had to move as the crew is washing the boat. I probably have had enough sun for now anyway. I had a quiet evening last night. After the captains party we had dinner and then I went to bed early. It has been exhausting. Drinking vodka with an onion, brandy, Rum and entertaining, translating, singing, and tours all in Finnish. Which I have yet to master. And a far way off I might add. Many people have asked for my business card and said that they are interested in seeing the photographs. I will now have to think on the best way to present them. I'll pass it by the experts. You know who you are!!! Tuesday February 3, 2004 Today we did the land tour again of Mindelo. It was allot more interesting for me the second time around. I had also read about the places we were seeing again. I took my GPS this time so I could let everyone know how high Monte Verde was. 735 meters. It was good as I could lead he way for the one group as Folke walked with and talked to others in the group. After Monte Verde we went to the village down on the ocean and stopped by "the take away". And again had the local grog. I now know that it is rum. I encouraged others to try it, which they did. And then we chased it with a beer. I have a couple of new best friend's one calls herself Greta Garbo because of her zebra sunglasses. Her husband is a fisherman in Finland so we talked about fishing through the ice. Today was tough work again. Trying to live up to the expectations of others and the photographs I shoot. Folke and I took a private tour around the island so I could shoot some special shots that he wanted. We went to a secluded beach village towards the airport, it was primitive and beautiful. Then we drove to a vegetable plantation, which was extremely green, bountiful and productive. The owner should be proud. Pressure, pressure, pressure. I guess that is another aspect of being hired as a photographer. We will see if my talents lie in that area. Nothing ventured nothing gained. I just have to believe in my abilities and mission and do the best that I can. We will see when the photographs are developed. I hope that there will be many pleasant surprises. Tonight we had the captain's welcome reception. I missed it the last time as I was shooting photographs. This time I had some champagne and talked with some people. I was asked if I was the only American and of course I said yes. At least some of the people on this cruise are talking to me already. After a nice dinner of salmon and a nice white wine, Folke did his show and I retired early to bed. Hopefully, early to rise also. Wednesday February 4, 2004 What started as a lot of fun has turned into allot of hard work. The pressure is on to produce great photographs. It is one thing to take what I see that inspires me and yet another to be assigned certain shots. I can only hope to capture those images as needed. Today we landed on the small island of Maio where only 1500 people live. Folke and I walked around town and I shot four rolls of film. We then had transport to two other small remote villages and shot a few more rolls. The transport man left us and came back to get us much later. We then had five minutes to get to the ship before it was leaving at noon. We were the last to board and once we did, up came the walkway and away we went. We will arrive in Praia, Cape Verde about 3:00 PM. I hope to hit the Internet cafe to check my e-mail and to send a message to my friends. Tomorrow we will not have a chance to do that, as we will be on tour all day. So far I am exhausted. From the motion of the ocean, the time difference, the nice warm weather, the challenge of the language barrier and the newness of everything in general. I am focusing on sleeping when I can and shooting as many photographs as I can and getting the job done so to speak. Thursday February 5, 2004 We did a full day tour today. Today we traveled the whole island. It is amazing how barren allot of it is. We traveled north to Tarrafal, which is a concentration camp and then along the east side of the island south. There were beautiful banana plantations and several large farms along the southern part. The coast was also beautiful. Everywhere we went, people came out to see us. When were we at the resort hotel for lunch I got an opportunity to take some photos of the fishing boats. They came in to shore and the procession of carrying the boat up on land was very interesting. Then they went through the process of taking every fish from the net and putting it into the bottom of the boat. All of this time, the boats are surrounded by men and women and kids waiting to load their baskets with fish for the market. As I watched and photographed I started to hand out some wwjd bracelets and angel pins to people who only speak Portuguese, Spanish or Creole. It was really fun to give away presents no matter how small. I gave first to those who were working the hardest and didn't ask me for anything. The more shy less aggressive they were the more I wanted to give to them. In the end the women were grateful and they allowed me to photographs them willingly. I also gave out some angels and the women immediately put them on their shirts. Some came up to me to show me. I enjoyed putting the bracelets on the women. They speak Creole so I am sure they had no idea what I was really saying but in my heart I know that they will know and be blessed. At Trafalgar it was apparent that this was a concentration camp. I need to read up on this. You could feel that something evil had happened here. It is amazing how those feelings are still evident today. Something was said about Salazar and his prisoners. The tour today took all day. We left at 8:30 am and returned at 6:30 PM. I shot six rolls of film, mostly of the fishing and some at a market. It is really exhausting trying to capture the feelings and emotions. Again I just have to have confidence that I am doing what I am suppose to be doing. Folke will write the articles and sell them to the Scandinavia market and I will sell them to the North American market. National geographic might also be an option. Who knows where this could lead and or end up? It has been a great opportunity so I know that the doors to follow will open also. We left port at about 7:30 PM tonight, an early light dinner and then to bed for a night of rocking and rolling on the wide-open sea. Friday February 6, 2004 We are now at sea again. Cruising from the Cape Verde islands to The Gambia. The sea is good today. I had a late breakfast and then did my devotions. I also passed out several of the books to crew members who I saw on a regular basis. I was a bit embarrassed as some had me sign them with an inscription. They seemed to appreciate the small gesture. I hope that they will enjoy reading the book as much as I did. I then went to sunbathe on the upper deck for about three hours. It was perfect. Not too warm and a beautiful breeze. It has been interesting being on the back-to-back cruises. It definitely has its advantages. The second time around I already knew the place and easily recognized specific areas. It gives me an advantage that I can walk ahead and shoot additional things that I may have missed the first time. Only three more days and then we will be headed on safari. I can hardly wait. Folke's secretary is meeting us at the airport and will take the film to be processed while we are on safari. I can hardly wait to see the fruits of my labor. Saturday February 7, 2004 This morning we arrived The Gambia at around 8:00 am. I am not sure what tour we will do but I believe that it is the city tour as opposed to the big forest, which we did last time. We went around the city through the market, to pet Sammy the crock, to the tie-dye factory, and then we went on our own private tour. We went to two different hotels to check them out. Of course I was shooting photographs and documenting everything including guest rooms. It is amazing how all of my past experiences, including the 25 years in the hotel service industry have come into play on this trip. Sunday February 8, 2004 Tonight we leave The Gambia sailing to Dakar, Senegal and arrive in the early am. It was an early evening. We had the farewell captain’s party tonight, which was fun. I have met a lot of really nice people on both of these cruises passengers and crew. I have been enriched by this experience and will never forget where I have been and whom I have met. Monday February 9, 2004 Tonight we hop on the plane to Helsinki and leave two hours later after we arrive, for Arusha via Amsterdam. So I guess that puts us in Arusha on Feb. 10th at 10:00 PM. I am now on the plane and it has been yet another experience. When we left we bought a bottle of coconut rum and shared it between three people. We arrived in Helsinki, met the secretary dropped off 41 rolls of slides to be developed, cruise clothes and extra luggage and met the next group for safari. SAFARI JOURNAL Well we arrived in Arusha. There were 10 Fins and myself. We flew from Helsinki to Amsterdam to Arusha and stayed the night in Arusha at The New Arusha Hotel. I found out that I would have a roommate on this trip. News to me. The hotel is a new one for me to stay at and I was truly impressed with the level of service and the decor. In the morning I met the assistant manager and asked her about the property. It is one year new and it shows. The guestroom drapes, spreads, public areas and overall general decor are very tasteful sophicated and food quality excellent as well as service. In the morning we drove to the Serena Ngorongoro Crater. It took most of the day but I have not traveled the road since 1997. It was amazing as we stopped along the way I remembered allot. Mostly where the toilets were located which in some cases was the most important detail. I was pleasantly surprised how many improvements have been made. I had heard that the road was much better than before but until I had traveled it I wasn't sure how much had really been done. It is like a highway now and I have named it the highway to heaven. The Fins had a greater appreciation for the quality of the road once we hit the end of it, which is a few miles short of the Crater. There the road reverts to dust and many holes but I could see work in progress on the side of us and it is only a matter of time before the next stretch of road is completed. I look forward to that time but hope that the road from the Crater to the Serengeti is never this smooth. There is something about being on a rugged road that makes you feel like you are in the wilderness and I hope that feeling never goes away. When we drove up to the Serena Ngorongoro Crater lodge I asked to see the manager Mr. Wilson. He promptly came to the reception thinking that there was a problem. He was so surprised to see me. The last time I had seen him was when he drove dad and I to the airport from Mt Village in Arusha September 2002. He is now the assistant manager at the crater. We spoke for some time but then our group was to have lunch. I checked into my room and then went to lunch. Lunch was a set menu with several selections from appetizer, soups, desserts and entrees or main course. Everything was very delicious and appealing. I went back to the room to unpack and there was a knock at the door. My roommate Ulla bulla answered the door and a familiar voice said is everything in the room ok. I then went to the door and there was Devotha. She started trembling and said is it really you mamma simba and we hugged. She touched my face in disbelief. We agreed to get together later that evening. I joined some of our group on the very informative nature walk that was given by the naturalist on staff. The group then met in the bar area for a presentation from Folke on the Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti film he had done. While I watched, Devotha came back to talk. After the presentation it was time for dinner. It was funny to see them keep checking to make sure they weren't dreaming at seeing me and that it truly was me. After a great night we got up early for breakfast and then an all day game drive down into the Crater February 12, 2004 The drive started at 9:00 am and we took box lunches with us. It was great to be back to the Crater. We saw many birds at the beginning of our drive and were requested to keep a detailed list so we would have a complete record. Now I have an official bird list going. Who would have thought? I now need my own bird book. Haha.
February 13, 2004 On the way to the Serengeti we stopped by the Olduvi Gorge and listened
to the presentation there. We then went to the Masai village. I enjoyed
taking photos of the people. We went inside the chief's village and then
into one of his wives (#3) house. As I entered I started to get very claustrophobic
so I turned around but he wouldn't let me out so I sat next to him and
the door. It was ok and rather interesting from then on. I bought the
hat and an earring from the wife. The hat she had on her head and the
earring she had in her ear. We then went to the Masai school hut. As each
of us entered the 20 or so kids said good morning mister etc. then they
counted to 100 several times. They sang songs “are you sleeping”
and sang the alphabet all in English. It was so fast, so intense and the
kids ranged in ages from 3 up to 6. It was amazing. I wish I had brought
my little voice recorder to record them. Today we are driving to my Serengeti.
I am so excited I just can't hide it!!!! It is fun seeing and watching
on my GPS as we get closer and closer to my home. We are driving straight
and no game drive on the way. It means that we will arrive in time for
lunch and then do an afternoon game drive. All of my friends at the Serena
lodges were so shocked and surprised to see me, the expression on their
faces was PRICELESS. It was like they were dreaming and thought that I
was an angel, as some said. No one knew that I was coming and since I
was traveling with a different group and tour agency, when they opened
the door of the car, I heard them say blah, blah, blah, mamma simba and
heads turned. I nodded acknowledgement and they all came running, smiling,
laughing, hugging, and then there was so much happiness and disbelief.
As I went from department to department it was great. First was the greeting
at the reception, then in the front desk, then the office. Then it was
lunchtime and of course you do have to walk through the bar to get to
lunch. There was most of the food and beverage crew who were so surprised.
More hugs and smiles and greetings and welcomes. Then up to lunch. More
surprises, hugs, greetings. So much joy I could explode. This evening
I am to do my slide show for our group so I did not go on game drive from
4:00 PM until 6:00 PM. I knew they would go to the hippo pool and I needed
to get ready for tonight. I took a shower and then prepared the slides.
At 7:00 we were to start but there was allot going on so we were delayed
until about 7:45. Then the show began. It has been great being an assistant
tour leader and helping to spot animals, knowing the area, telling stories
and providing animal facts (thanks to my training at the Famous San Diego
Zoo Wild Animal Park). It was obvious that the group appreciation increased
at every lodge, as they were so surprised at how many people knew me.
There was additional validation after they saw my slide show at the Serena
Serengeti as they had no idea who I was or what I was or anything. February 14, 2004 We left late after 9:30 and we drove the way I dislike by the research station not by the river but I knew every thing was in god's hands. I checked my watch regularly and as we turned around in Magadi before we were even at the area where I've seen so many leopards my heart sunk. We then went to olinjohnjohni. We again turned around. We then headed to the Masai kopjes. I have only seen one leopard in this area before and it was approaching 11:30. All of a sudden our speed picked up and we were eating the dust of the Nissan van in front of us. We kept trying to pass but no way would they let us. Finally at the kopje they turned right and our driver literally floored it. I was standing laughing as the rest of the group hung on for dear life. I said welcome to a real game drive. This is how I usually travel from leopard to leopard. It was great. Finally some excitement. Then we saw the cars and then the leopard. Wow what a relief. The weight disappeared at 11:52. What I knew but had not shared is that all but two of my 148 leopards were seen before noon. But god provided. We then headed towards the migration and everyone really enjoyed the thousands of wildebeest and zebras. Ulla commented that she really had no idea what that would be like, the sights and sounds were great. They are capturing the African spirit. Watch out! It was appropriate that I spent Valentines Day in the Serengeti with my closest and my largest Serena family whom I cherish and love. I was also blessed with a leopard sighting today as my valentines present. I was hoping to see Dora when we had lunch at the visitor's center but she has been transferred. I can't believe that I am only here for two nights. Everyone says hello to dad and are always asking how he is. Tonight after a great day on game drive several of us went directly to the pool and had a great refreshing swim. Later we all met for dinner and most had an early night. I of course stayed up late talking with my dear friends, new and old. We are leaving in the morning for Lake Manyara so I will have breakfast with Wilfred Shirima at 7:00 am before I go. February 13-14 2004
I met with Shirima and discussed my return to the Serengeti either in July or January and that seems to be fine. I gave him a set of my slides for the sole purpose of showing at the lodge in my absence and he agreed to indicate that they were taken by me and to hand out my business cards as well. As we left the Serengeti a bunch of cars were stopped by the hippo pool and main road. Since we were leaving we had to go that way. We went to the front because it was obvious everyone else was on game drive because their tops were up and we didn't want to eat everyone's dust and we would drive faster than they would. There was a cheetah on a termite hill and then I saw one next to it. As we stopped the mother came running almost directly at us. Then a baby cheetah joined her and they stopped right next to the road about 25 meters from us. It was then that I realized that before I'd left on this trip, I had said what I'd really like to see is a small baby cheetah. I had been so busy I had totally forgotten. Thank you for providing, yet again. Today we are headed to Lake Manyara where several good friends are, John Massa, Simon, and Mary. We arrive at lunchtime. The good news is we have already seen three black Rhinos in Ngorongoro Crater, a leopard and a small baby cheetah (I had not ever seen one this small) in the Serengeti. So my leopards still continue whether or not I am in control. We all know that I am never the one in control. The Fins I was traveling with, asked me how I could always be singing and so happy in the morning and in general be happy and up all day, first up, smiling and happy and last to bed still smiling and singing through out. I like to believe that when we are doing our mission that it shows through the happiness and joy from the heart. Finnish people in general, as they say, have a reputation of being very stoic, do not laugh; are not very friendly and not outgoing. As the trip progressed, the Fins on this safari began humming daily, smiling, joking and even danced. Well when we finally arrived at Lake Manyara after checking in I walked into the executive office and surprised Mary. I had not seen her in several years and it was so good to see her. We hugged and laughed. I asked about Simon and John Massa and was told that they would be on the night shift. I went to the room and then returned for lunch and to my surprise there was John Massa and we were equally happy to see each other. I again was treated as royalty and of course I had to introduce him to everyone. Last time I saw john Massa he was working at Mt village and my father and I went to his house to meet his family Josephine his wife, Brian and Nancy their kids. We went on a late afternoon game drive today. We saw a lot of birds. As we were leaving the VIP car and headed back to the lodge we saw a leopard. Leopards are rarely seen here as it is a very dense area and they are very difficult to spot. We were fortunate as other cars were already stopped. We were there for about 5 minutes and then the leopard came down out of the tree and left. It was about 1000 meters away so it was very difficult to see but several of us managed. Our other vehicle pulled up right after the leopard disappeared. February 16, 2004 This morning we got up early for breakfast and an all day game drive. We again saw a lot of birds. We were trying to find the leopard again but that did not happen. We had lunch in the bush, which was very nice. After game drive a few of us from the group went to the pool. What a beautiful set up. I believe that this has the best view in the world of any pool that I have been to. Many agree with that statement. We had the French migration but held our ground. As we were around the pool the clouds rolled in and the rains started to pour down. Everyone ran to cover at the bar and Ulla and I were the only two who had terry cloth robes on. Everyone else was freezing except for us. It Poured! And POURED. While I was there waiting for the rain to stop, a gentleman overheard my Swahili and he introduced himself as Damian M. T. Massay Senior Conservation Assistant for Tourism for the Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority. Everything happens for a reason. The rains stopped and Ulla and I could go to the room to change for dinner. We had a great dinner. John Massa was working and taking great care of us as well as the whole dining room. While we were eating the musician was playing some great music that I wanted to record. As I was standing by where he was playing I saw someone waving. I realized that it was my very good friend Harun who used to be a roving assistant manager at the Serena properties and now he is working for the competitor. He was there as a surprise with his new bride. I had tears in my eyes as the last time we were together was with my father and we were to meet in Mombassa two years ago. We sat and talked for a long time and agreed to meet again. What a blessing and pleasant surprise! After the dinner and bar were closed I sat with my very good friend John Massa and he told me something important. He and his wife are expecting in September and if it is a boy they will name it Sidney after my father and if it is a girl they will name it after me, Sharon. I again had tears in my eyes. We both did. We hugged and then it was bedtime for me. February 17, 2004 Today I was sad at having to leave my good friends but if we were not so close then parting would be easy. We all celebrated breakfast together. Nickson the assistant manager, John Massa, Mary and Simon. We had a wonderful heartfelt warm time together. After breakfast it was time to board the vehicle. They all lined up by the land rover and hugged me several times and then several more. We said God bless until we meet again, and then we were off. My new Finnish friends were moved by the exchange. They said that I have been glowing ever since I arrived in my home Tanzania and now they know why. They saw how much love there is between and amongst my Tanzanian family and myself. We drove to Arusha and stayed at the Arusha Coffee Plantation just out side of town. It is a lovely set up and the rooms are beautiful. They even have a fireplace in them. They are extremely well appointed and tastefully decorated. We had a shopping tour around town. We stopped by Cultural Heritage where my good friend Saif (the owner) said he had heard that I was in town. My seatmate on the flight over had taken my advice and had gone in to see him. When his exhibit hall is finished he says that he will display my work. I can hardly wait. He gave my Finnish friends a great presentation on Tanzanite. He also gave them good prices on whatever else they had selected. It is always good to see Saif. We had a brandy tasting at Ulla and my room and I introduced them to the Lion Lady drink and the proper way to mix it together and drink it. It was a lot of fun. We then had a great dinner and then early to bed. February 15 – 16 game drive.
February 17 - 22, 2004 Today we fly to Zanzibar. It was uneventful flight. I met a great little boy at the airport and when we arrived in Zanzibar we cleared customs very quickly and efficiently. It was a long drive to Breezes on the far side of the island. We finally arrived at about 2:00 pm and I headed straight to the ocean after putting my things in the room and changing into my swimsuit. I thought that it would be refreshing. Instead it was as warm as a Jacuzzi. It was still absolutely breathtaking beautiful. The beach, the grounds and the atmosphere were perfect. I felt like I was in Heaven. The various bars, the dining room, the staff, the pool, the gym, and the special dining room for two… everything was perfect. The one restaurant is called “Breakers” which is ironic as I worked at the Sheraton in Ocean City Maryland for twenty years and we have a restaurant called “Breakers”! So now I’ve been in the Breakers on the Indian Ocean as well as the Breakers on the Atlantic Ocean. We stayed here four nights and every night the dinner was different and they even changed the table lines to reflect the change in meal and atmosphere. We had a fabulous buffet one night with lobsters, shrimp, fish, clams, calamari, octopus and every other kind of seafood and as much as you want to eat. It was great. Breakfast was super every morning and we were on our own for lunch. Our last night here they had a bon fire on the beach with great dancing music. There were guests from around the world dancing on the beach around the largest bon fire I have ever seen. It was a great way to end our time here at breezes. The next day we drove to Serena at Zanzibar Stone Town. On the way there we stopped to see if we could find the rare Red Colobus monkey. It is only found here on Zanzibar. We found them or I should say they found us. When we were walking through the forest all of a sudden they were jumping and leaping from tree to tree right in front of us, over us, around us, everywhere. We were laughing so hard and were totally amazed we actually thought that they were showing off for us. I was just waiting for one to actually land on one of us. Yes they were that close. Before we arrived at the Serena we had a drive around tour of Stone Town. We finally arrived at the Serena Stone town and my very good friend Charles Muia is now the manager there. He was the manager at Serena Serengeti for many years and I have stayed with he and his family every time I have been there. It was a great reunion. After checking in we walked around town, then had a great dinner. Ulla and I went out for an after dinner cocktail at Africa House. Dad and I had been there several times. The next morning after a wonderful breakfast buffet Charles picked me up at 9:00 am and took me to his home. Charity his wife, Louie his son and Zara his daughter were there to greet me. The kids had grown so much. It was just so much fun and so delightful to see them again. The kids now speak English and before all they could say to dad and I was hello hello. I spent the whole day there at the house. Charity and I had a great conversation. Charles took us back to the hotel where Charity and I had a “see you later” drink. After Charity left I joined the group for a “sundowner”, cocktail before leaving to fly back to Finland. A band arrived and wouldn’t you know, they played the “jambo” song that I have become known for singing. It was an appropriate finale. February 17 –22, 2004
February 23-25, 2004 The flight back to Finland was uneventful. . Mervi picked us up at the airport and drove us to Folke’s house. Where I promptly started to edit the slides that were waiting for me from the cruise. We also dropped off the film from the safari to be developed. February 26, 2004 This morning I continued to go through my slides from the cruise. I am to pick up the remainder of the slides this afternoon. Tomorrow we meet with a big magazine so it is important that I have everything organized. I took a shower and the shower attachment was not hung properly. So when I turned the water pressure up it came unattached and hit me directly in the face just below the eye. It really hurt. I continued to shower and by the time I was finished, my eye had swollen considerably. I couldn't believe it. I searched for ice and put ice on it for about an hour or two. Then I started with the heat to remove the blood. It became quite black rather soon. When Folke came home he could hardly believe it. He and his friend went to a reception and when they returned we all went out. The first club we went to was the lost and found. Then we went to Henry's. It was jam-packed. People bumping into each other. Everybody had too much to drink. People were acting crazy. There was a drag queen singing on stage. All the women were very young and dressed to the nines heels and tight titty tops. Of course everyone knows Folke the TV star so there was much attention. Folke loved absorbing all of the attention from his fans. I just stood back and watched. We played follow the Folke, the lead wildebeest through the Finnish party migration. Several times we circulated the bar and then back around again and again. When we left there we went to the back door where Folke's friend that was with us, his son worked there. I do not think that the son was too happy to see us, as his father and Folke were rather loud. I of course was under control but in their company so I automatically became classified in the same category. We then went to a strip joint. I did not want to go but how was I to get home. It was a small place maybe two other people and no one was dancing. After five or so minutes out came a dancer. She was ok to look at and but rather heavy legs and butt, no chest. It really was not sexy at all. I was surprised. We then left and came back to Folke's and drank some wine, danced a bit and then went to bed. The clock said 4:30 am and in the morning we have an appointment at 10. That means that I will get up around 8:30 to get ready. Not much sleep, about 4 hours but that is ok. I have been working hard and not much playing. Only one more day and then it is back to work in America. February 27, 2004. We met with a big magazine this morning and they want to do an article with a two-page spread of my big cats: lions, leopards, and cheetahs. They wanted me to leave the slides and wanted to know how to buy and I said that Folke was my agent and they could work it out with him. They are also interested in the Cape Verde Islands but Folke needs to do the article and select photos. Folke and I were laughing after the meeting as they must have wondered whom this person was showing photographs of big cats with the last name Lyon. I do not think that they will forget the lionlady; I made quite an impression sporting my beautiful black eye. This evening Vesa, Mervi, Folke and I partied at the house into the wee hours of the morning. February 28, 2004 Today I left Folke’s house for the airport. Check in went fine. The flights were are smooth sailing and I arrived in San Diego without incidence. I almost forgot that I had a black eye but everyone looks longer at me. Then it registers why they are staring. The first person to ask what happened was an American. I guess everyone else is too polite to ask. American’s are a different breed than the rest of the world. Let’s celebrate and embrace the differences!!!!! I am now back in America with a whole new set of life’s experiences to add, yet another, dimension and layer to my personality. I can hardly wait to see what is next in my life and where it will lead. |
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