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| 1998 Safari Journal | |||||||||||||||||
I've seen both the best and the worst of Africa. This third safari I've seen first hand the effects of El Nino. The animals are fat and happy. The grass is long and green and there is water everywhere. Where there were roads, there are now rivers. River roads merge with river roads and become Lake El Nino’s, as we now call them. Water, which is usually a very precious commodity, is now in abundance. The effects of the over abundant supply of water is the Lake El Nino effect. Supplies such as fuel, (for safari vehicles), groceries and tourists are not able to get through. Vehicles have become virtually immobile for several days before help arrived to get them mobile. If, by chance, the tourists and the fuel do make it through, travel over the roads is extremely challenging. Stories abound of getting stuck anywhere from several hours to several days. At first this added some excitement to the adventure but the reality of spending several days stuck in the mud without food or water and the difficulty associated with getting rescued, it has lost its appeal. There were days while we were on game drives in the bush that we did not see another safari vehicle all day. There were times that I wondered- if we did get stuck who would know and how would they find us. We had no radio or any mode of communicating with anyone outside of our vehicle. When I was brave enough to ask the infamous question of how and whom would find us if we did get stuck, I felt a little more at ease. Not because it would be easy to find us in over 14,000 sq. kilometers but I knew that God was in charge. He got me back to Africa and He would take care of me no matter what. With that assurance I concentrated on the beauty and the adventure that was ahead. Others who were not at ease with game drives in the muck opted to rest at the lodge instead of risking the elements. This resulted in far less crowds on the game drives and more serene surroundings. I was where I wanted to be, if given the option of being anywhere in the world. I was also completely satisfied and totally content, if by some strange circumstance, I was not to see anymore animals than I already had so far. This safari had already exceeded my previous two in so many ways, I was in Heaven. My previous safaris’s had been ideal at the time but as my experience in the bush increased, my desires and needs had changed, and this safari was just what I needed this time. I was alone in the Land Rover with a guide and a driver and we did whatever I wanted to do. As a result we stayed out all day, every day. We would have an early morning game drive, come back for breakfast, take a packed lunch and stay out until dinner. This doesn't sound like a big deal but last time on safari we had been watching a mother cheetah with 4 cubs for about fifteen minutes and half of the people were ready to move on. I could have watched those cheetahs all afternoon so now, on this trip I can. Monday January 5, 1998 I am so excited. I'm headed to Tanzania, Africa on a safari. Full of anticipation, not certain what to expect. I had planned a custom safari at the request of a friend and at the last minute discovered that I would be traveling alone instead of with a companion. I have traveled by myself before on trips with and without joining groups of other travelers unknown to me, but this is a little different. This is Africa, and I will only be joining my guide Willi and my driver Sampson. I will be entrusted into their care and they will be responsible for returning me safely to the airport in Arusha for my return to America. (TOP) Tuesday January 6, 1998 It was wonderful getting off of the plane, to the fresh air, the nice gentle Breeze, I felt like I was home. I have been on two previous safaris. When I returned from my first safari to Kenya, I was a new and different person. Everyday had exceeded my expectations and every day had exceeded the previous day. The whole experience was too short and I knew that I would HAVE TO return to Africa. I knew when I returned that I would look for a faster way to get there and I would spend more days on actual game drives. I returned to Tanzania, Africa the following February. It was my now my desire to return for a third trip. I would return to the Serengeti and stay longer than I had previously. I was now embarking on what I thought would be an ideal safari, if there were such a thing, one that could exceed my two previous experiences in the African bush. This time I decided to skip the foreplay and go straight for the climax. By that I mean that the Serengeti was where I saw the most animals and was where I wanted to spend my time. I would be traveling from lodge to lodge, spending 3 to 4 nights at each. I wanted to get to know the area and the employees and staff of each lodge. I just arrived in Arusha and I am at the Dik Dik Hotel. One of my flights was cancelled but they put me on another flight. My bags all arrived, Willi met me at the airport, I checked into the Dik Dik, had a welcome beer and in the morning we are going to meet at 8:00 for breakfast. Then we will drop off the veterinarian supplies for Arlene Gardesbain, go to the market, and then the Impala Hotel for lunch before we board our flight to the Serengeti, and then our drive to Ndutu. (TOP) Day 3 of Trip - Day 1 on Safari Wednesday January 7, 1998
I have landed. It feels so good to be back in Africa. This IS home. Already I have seen more on my 1st day than I did on the first week of my last safari. Today we drove from Arusha to the airport and then flew to the Serengeti. It was great seeing Africa from the sky. The plane was a little bit delayed and it was overcast and rainy in Arusha. When we arrived in Sereonera in the Serengeti the skies were blue, the sun was shining and it was beautiful. After my arrival in Sereonera we drove to Ndutu. Ndutu is located on the southern end of the Serengeti Game reserve. Ndutu is one of my favorites Lodges from last year. It's quaint, small, intimate and had many elephants that would come daily to the watering hole located just several hundred feet from the lodge. As we drove from Sereonera to Ndutu, where we were going to be staying for a few nights, we came across two cheetahs lying in the grass just bedding down for the night. It was great. Last year I didn't see any cheetah until our seventh day on safari. Just outside Sereonera we saw a mother lion with a radio collar on and she had four ittsy bitsy baby cubs with her. Willi did the wounded wildebeest, they all were very intrigued and she came looking but the babies stayed put. The cubs were probably a month old. Then we came across a mother lion nursing two cubs, another female and male and a large group of adolescent male lions, about ten of them. Not a bad first half day in Africa, two cheetah and 18 lions. All in all I've had one of my best days ever. I feel like I've died and gone to heaven. I couldn't wait to return to Ndutu and sit around the campfire at night. Needless to say, the campfire was the first place you could find me at the end of the day. I sat around the bonfire, had a beer, had dinner, met the Lodge owner, a couple that works at the Lodge and another couple, both national geographic photographers, who knew Willi. Ndutu is a great place to unwind as well as meet new friends. Well, pleasant dreams. I could not be happier. (TOP) Day 4 of Trip - Day 2 on Safari Thursday January 8, 1998
What a beautiful and peaceful place. I am surprised that my feelings of awe are as intense as they are. I thought that the third time to Africa might quench my thirst or that the feelings would not be as warm and cozy. Boy was I wrong. They are more intense than ever. The beauty and peacefulness is just awesome. I could just soak up this feeling that I have. I'm not sure that I'll ever tire of this feeling. It is great to have Willi as my guide again and Sampson is a wonderful driver. Sampson is full of joy and always laughing, a pleasure to be around. We heard that there is a leopard in Ndutu. This was my goal to see more leopards. I have seen two, one on each of my previous trips, but it is the animal I have seen the least. Just like fishing, you have to use the right bait and fish the right areas, depending on what type of fish you are fishing for. In planning this trip I concentrated on Leopard country knowing that the likelihood of seeing a leopard was increased.But to have a leopard in our midst, at the first camp, in the first couple of days, was a miracle. Today we saw quite a few giraffes, tons of zebra and the flamingos were in abundance this year as well. I have noticed that due to El Nino, (the Rain), all of the animals seemed especially svelte and happy. Today we were amongst the lions. We saw 7 lions in the morning down by the water, they were fat and happy. One of the lions came to within three feet of the Land Rover. I thought he was going to stick his nose in the door. That was rather exciting. From there we went to the plains where we didn't see allot but had lunch in the most wonderful dining room. We were in the middle of the Serengeti, some 14,763 sq. kilometers, and as far as you could see, all around you, we were the only ones in this huge expanse of beauty. I met some nice people from Philadelphia today Carla and Conrad, he works in Rwanda and she has a new job in London. With thoughts of lions, giraffes, zebra, cheetah and leopards running through my head I tried to sleep knowing that God has great plans ahead for me. (TOP) Day 5 of Trip - Day 3 on Safari Friday January 9, 1998
I was up bright and early met Sampson and Willi in the dining room at 6:00 am and went off on game drive at 6:30. We saw a mother lion and her two cubs down in the flats and then came back to a wonderful breakfast at 9:30. We saw another mother lion and two cubs with a wildebeest kill in the trees right as we came out of the camp in Ndutu. Then as we drove a little further we saw two mothers and four cubs eating a zebra, around noon, by the water hole. We saw 12 lions, a bizillion wildebeest, allot of zebra and then we had lunch with a mother cheetah and her three babies. I video taped her chase at a Thomson gazelle. Unsuccessful attempt I might add. I spent the rest of the day with the cheetahs and on the way back to Ndutu we saw three wonderful bull elephants. The first elephants to arrive in Ndutu this year. That was exciting. WOW.God's country is fantastic. Even when we are not in the middle of tons of animals, He continues to amaze me with the beauty of His creation. I have met some neat people one of, which is a guy named Conrad. He was traveling with his sister and he had been working in Rwanda with the refugees. His tour with the government was up so he and his sister decided to go on safari. Conrad politely informed me, that upon our return from a very early morning game drive to the exact area, (if there is such a thing) where the leopard had been spotted that he had seen the leopard. I was so excited for him as I can recall everything in detail when I saw my first leopard. I was especially excited, as Conrad had never seen a leopard in the bush. Truly, had I been given the opportunity to see it instead of Conrad, I would not have been able to deny him the pleasure that I have been fortunate and blessed to see twice. It was also his last day of safari and the beginning of my trip so I knew that I would have other opportunities to see a leopard. The funny thing is, we had a great laugh over Conrad's leopard experience, as he was so excited in seeing this leopard and it's kill in the tree directly overhead, that he totally forgot to take a picture. (TOP) Day 6 of Trip - Day 4 on Safari Saturday January 10, 1998
We saw flamingos, lion cubs and their mother, giraffes fighting, two male lions sleeping by the lake and three elephants. We were one of two safari vehicles that ventured forth. It was a little bit rainy, the wettest season they have had as long as they can remember. Ndutu is flat so the water just sits and has no where to go. It becomes a big slip and slide and becomes like a swamp or a lake. I have to give credit to Sampson the driver and Willi the guide they get us through. Go land rover! (TOP) Day 7 of Trip - Day 5 on Safari Sunday January 11, 1998
We were scheduled go from Ndutu to migration camp but we were informed before we left that it would probably be impossible to get to Migration camp and we might not even get to Sereonera where we were to have a nice hot lunch before heading to the northern Serengeti. We were one of two vehicles traveling in that direction. Just outside of Sereonera, the bridge we were to cross was flooded. We waited for the vehicle that had passed us earlier to come and we watched them cross successfully so we also crossed and made it to the Lodge for lunch. The next challenge that was presented was for Willi and Sampson to find fuel for our vehicle. With the road conditions as they are the fuel trucks cannot travel either therefore fuel is in very short supply and high demand. A few lessons I’ve learned so far you definitely need a land rover, the most experienced guide you can find and the best driver you can. It seems like everybody is stuck somewhere. Those going south can't cross the rivers and those going north can't cross the rivers either. As far as I'm concerned if I must be somewhere, it couldn't be any nicer than here in the Serengeti. It was as if an American snow storm had rendered everybody immobile. We were the only brave souls that weathered the storm by venturing forth and we made it. We conquered the elements and survived. My guide Willi managed to get fuel (a full tank) in a fuel shortage and a personal escort by the national park rangers over flooded rivers. Where upon our arrival into the next park territory we were met by the next national park rangers. They had been advised to be on the lookout for us to make sure we made it. They informed us that had another 30-45 minutes passed without a sign of us they would have come looking for us. That was a comforting thought. As now we were the only tourists, the only safari vehicle to make it across the three swollen rivers and we now had the whole northern Serengeti to ourselves. I was impressed that Willi had managed to arrange a personal escort just so I could make it to my original destination. I asked Willi how he had managed such a task and he told me that he simply told them that he had someone very important to take to Migration Camp, the Queen. The queen needed to be safely escorted to her castle that was awaiting her arrival. From that time on Willi called me The Queen Of The Serengeti. As conditions would have it, we did not go to Migration Camp but opted for a slightly dryer, more navigational road and ended up at the northern boarder of Tanzania and the southern boarder of Kenya and stayed at a wonderful Lodge, Lobo Lodge. Upon arrival I discovered that we were just in time for a special reward, an absolutely gorgeous sunset. It was really inspiring and very spiritual to watch the sun set, lighting up the whole Serengeti plains with a wash of fabulous warm red golden copper hues of color climaxing to a finale of vibrant orange. The full moon rising in the opposite direction made me feel so close to God I was totally surrounded and emmersed in the beauty of His creation. I actually had tears in my eyes as I sang how great thou art and amazing grace as the sun set and the moon rose. Later at dinner Willi, Sampson and I all were in agreement that we were definitely the most successful, most adventuresome game drivers in the whole of Africa. That day anyway and at least in the Serengeti, that we knew for sure. We were indeed the only occupants of the lodge and the staff catered just to us. The castle, the queen and her companions. It's times like these that really push my appreciation to an all new high for being blessed with such talented and knowledgeable first class driver and guide and first class vehicle. Their skill and ability is what got us to the Northern Serengeti when nobody else made it. After a wonderful dinner and a couple of drinks awe watched a video tape on the wild dogs of Africa. Then we all went to sleep to the sounds of the baboons which are very interesting. I slept soundly soundly. (TOP) Day 8 of Trip - Day 6 on Safari Monday January 12, 1998
This morning I awoke to the sound of my alarm clock, at 7:00 we had breakfast. It was raining, Willi went to see the park ranger and we decided to travel on to Migration camp. We are going to try it, as the worst that could happen is that we'd get stuck in the mud. We did not get stuck in the mud and it was extremely muddy. We saw allot of impala, Thomson gazelle, grant’s, and as soon as we left Lobo lodge this am we saw a pride of at least twenty lions sitting up on a rock kopi. Our total is 67 lions and 6 cheetah. Migration tented camp is absolutely beautiful. When I checked in I had tears in my eyes as it brought back so many fond childhood memories of when we used to go camping. The surroundings are beautiful. The rock walk ways and the tent is wonderful. I am now sitting on the porch of my tent at migration camp we are a day late but it's been a couple of exciting days. I think that we are the only ones to venture forth on these roads to Lobo lodge and migration camp. We didn't pass any vehicles on our way to migration camp today and yesterday on our way to migration camp we passed four vehicles escaping back to the southern Serengeti as they had been stranded in the northern Serengeti and could not get around. The park ranger personally escorted us from Sereonera to the raging rivers, which we now call Lake El Nino, three rivers were flooded and we watched the ranger’s vehicle cross successfully before we would cross. Just in case they got washed down the river which had happened several times in the last two months. The Grumetti River is just a little ways from my tent and I can hear it roaring in the background. Now I’m going to go for our game walk by the Grumetti River and look for crocks and hippos with the park ranger. The beauty of Africa is awesome. This trip exceeds my previous ones by 1000 %. I'm not sure it is possible to exceed this trip but I'd like to try again. I just can't imagine someone not appreciating or having the desire to be here. This trip is so special in so many ways. You can't come to Africa and not change. I've got to come back again. I'm not sure that I can wait another full year. If not sooner next January will be fine. (TOP) Day 9 of Trip - Day 7 on Safari Tuesday January 13, 1998
I am sitting on the front porch at 5:00 am and writing by the light of the full Moon. I am listening to the roar of the Grumetti River in the distance and I know that this is Heaven. I thought that my third safari would quench my thirst and desire for more. At migration camp I am at home. I could live in a tent. I don't need the fancy house with all the goodies. A permanent tent will do. I am not saying that I could live in Africa full time (not now anyway) but I love being a part of nature, one with nature, close to nature. The tent brings back so many happy feelings. I go to sleep with a smile on my face, I WAKE UP WITH A SMILE. I smile all day long, no phone, no TV, only the moon to watch and the sounds of nature to enhance and inspire the soul. My only regret is that I did not say yes to tea service this morning, which would have been brought to my tent and left on the table situated outside on my covered stone porch, just prior to sunrise. (TOP) Day 10 of Trip - Day 8 on Safari Wednesday January 14, 1998
Day 11 of Trip - Day 9 on Safari Thursday January 15, 1998
Here in Africa I feel so close to God The sounds the smells the sights. I am constantly being blessed by creation. I want to soak it all in, to fill every crevasse, and absorb all that can be absorbed. This wonder this awe this passion that ignites my soul, and stokes the fire within. I am so thankful that my soul is on fire and for the many blessing I have been given. I just want to keep the fire burning and to share that which I’ve been given. After this most recent safari adventure I am more convinced than ever that safari's in the African bush are not for the faint hearted. Not because of the animals but because of the other situations that present themselves. The savanna grasslands are now lakes or swamps of foot deep muck, which have claimed many safari vehicles or at least rendered them useless and immobile. The roads are now rivers. The rivers are raging torrents of water just waiting for her next victim to cross. And if that is not enough, now a broken brake line added to the excitement. But we've made it. We were the only safari vehicle to make it to the northern Serengeti. I had it all to myself as no one can cross for five days due to the conditions of the swollen and flooded rivers. I really do feel as if I am in Africa. The Africa I had only imagined but had not till now experienced. Coming back to civilization meant sharing the one lane dirt road with at least a passing safari vehicle every three hours or so. Game drives amounted to continual game of mud slides and topsy turvy not sure that the vehicle would stay upright, let alone not bogged down in the mud. The mud slinging through the window added to the excitement and as I laughed my way through it. The biggest challenge today, was for me to fight off the ambitious testes flies.... Armed with deet and Benadryl, I became a virtual death trap for those flies that couldn't resist. At least a bite meant certain death for those who couldn't resist a bite of my flesh. (TOP) Day 12 of Trip - Day 10 on Safari Friday January 16, 1998
The Land rover is a God Send. The other vehicles continue to do the El Nino Tango and get stuck as well. We came across 4 wheel drive vehicles stuck in the mud as well as several stuck in an El Nino river. Today we spotted a lioness stalking a topi and I was fortune enough to catch it on video. The topi walked directly towards the lioness when she charged, the Topi ran directly towards our vehicle. I thought that the lion and the topi were both going to come right into our vehicle or broad side us at best. The topi managed to escape both the lioness and our vehicle. A faulty starter has meant that when we stop and turn the motor off that we must remember to park on a hill so we can roll start the vehicle if necessary. We found a local mechanic (our good fortune) to help correct the problem. I am presently awaiting my chariot to come collect me. I informed my guys, politely of course, that when we come upon the leopard that it will be necessary to turn the vehicle off no matter where we are. The vibration of the motor means unclear photographs, which are useless. (TOP) Day 13 of Trip - Day11 on Safari Saturday January 17, 1998
Today I decided that it would be best if I made sure that all of my personal belongings and essentials (ticket, passport, and money ) were on my person when we crossed the rivers just in case we didn't make it, and to identify my body. I was actually afraid for the first time today. The danger was evident when we went to cross the swollen river and we came across an abandoned vehicle right in the middle of the river surrounded by hippos. It was a very real possibility that could have been us. Just driving on the roads the water was deep enough to come under the doors and into the vehicle. The possibility of the motor stalling was also a threat. Since we were having problems with our starter the last challenge that we needed to deal with was a stalled and stuck vehicle. Vehicles as well as people were stranded on both sides of the river some for 2 days with no water or food. I felt very fortunate to have both plenty of water and our generous lunch boxes. It didn't matter that our safari and game drive had amounted to people and river watching as long, as we were mobile. One group of tourists had 4 to 6 vehicles stuck on one side of the river and the occupants could be seen crossing the river on foot carrying all of their belongings to the other side. When you can travel the game drive roads the grass is so tall that it comes over the hood of the Land Rover. A lot of the animals have taken refuge on the semi dry roads (if any). I think even they are praying for the rain to stop at this point. Everyone is wondering what tomorrow will bring. I have two more nights at this lodge and then it becomes essential that I cross the rivers to my final destination, which is where I will catch my flight to Arusha to Amsterdam. Others are not so lucky, they are traveling via road to Arusha where it could now take days, normally only taking hours. Flights only leave twice a week from arusha to Amsterdam so a missed flight could result in a delay of 5 days returning home. The lack of FUEL - is again, a challenge. There is a shortage due to the road conditions and the trucks that supply fuel cannot travel either. (TOP) Day 14 of Trip - Day 12 on Safari Sunday January 18, 1998
My last night at Serena Serengeti, dinner was late as I was talking to the large group of people and ended up having George join Willi and i. as we finished dinner the lights went low and the music started. I was so excited as it was the music from my first night. Well I was looking for the celebrant and low and behold the singing was for me. They were singing goodbye, we will miss you, come and visit again. I had tears in my eyes. The people here are so nice and friendly I just love them and all of their hospitality. (TOP) Day 15 of Trip - Day 13 on Safari Monday January 19, 1998
Today was a slow day for game viewing. Our record of seeing lions every day was jeopardized. As a matter of fact we did not see a lion while on game drive. Willi, Sampson and I all had dinner together since it was my last night we arranged an exception. After I met the South African stewardess the Austrian Mt. Climber, the coffee plantation owner and his wife, my dinner mates showed up. After dinner and on the way back to the room there was allot of noise from 40 college students who were very excited about the lions who were in the central area under the dining room and by the guest rooms. I just laughed as god still provided a lion for each day. He brought them to us even at the lodge. (TOP) Day 16 of Trip - Day 14 on Safari Tuesday January 20, 1998
Ring tailed Gannett, mongoose, leopard turtle, European roller, red eyed Hildebrandt, fishers love bird, Marshall’s eagle, chameleon, igama lizard, Black snake eagle, whitebrowed coucal, red bishop, hammerkop, wild cat, Cape buffalo, rock hyrax, steenbok, verreaux eagle owl, Goliath heron, dik Dik, impala, hartebeest, wildebeest, Thompson gazelle, grants gazelle, topi, Hippos, lions, cheetah, giraffe, crocodile, warthog, elephant, baboon, vervit Monkey, zebra, jackal, bat ear fox, waterbuck, eland, saddle bill stork, lesser Flamingo, greater flamingo (TOP) Wednesday January 21, 1998 Great time with my new friends Donna and her son. Also the masseur Remco. (TOP) Thursday January 22, 1998 Home and what a greeting. No jet lag. (TOP) |
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